Part 3 Jerusalem

We approached Jerusalem on route 1, from the east, and drove through a check point. This was the second checkpoint we had encountered. We were passing from the Palestinian Authority West Bank to the Israeli controlled zone. It reminded me of Berlin after the war with checkpoint Charlie. The car in front had driven onto the highway from Palestinian areas. Evidence of this was also the lack of Israeli plates on the car. They were stopped. The men were asked for identification and the car was looked over, and under. Memories of suicide bombings are still very clear. We were waived through since we clearly were not a threat. Arriving in Jerusalem had a feeling of entering a safe zone. At least for some, and for now.

View of Old City from Mount of Olives

Fortunately we had again booked accommodation and had to get rid of the car. Jerusalem was a city and we didn’t need or want the car. By chance we parked very close to our hostel in Jaffa Road. From the photos on the web I knew a light rail travelled right outside the hostel. After finding it, disposing of the car and eventually moving into our tiny room, we began our exploration of Jerusalem. As in Rome where we stayed on a road leading to the Forum, this was so convenient. Down Jaffa Rd was the Old City. Jaffa Rd was a pedestrian precinct with many shops  and up the road were the markets.

Jaffa Road tram

Running for a tram

It is hard to know where to begin. Like any major city of the world like London, Rome or Paris, Jerusalem was a city of many parts. The Old City, the modern areas with the Israel Museum, the Mount of Olives, and the predominately Moslem areas. We had 4 days.

The Old City would be visited many times. I was spell bound it. Religion has meant little to me. History however has been my passion. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was quite awe inspiring.

Pilgrims waiting to enter

The Church is really a number of churches. In the past the Vatican, and Russian and Greek Orthodox vied for rites to this little piece of the Old City. Finally they agreed that the status quo should dictate, so no more arguing. Within the church you see ceremonies of the three denominations. This Church is said to stand on the site that Christ was buried and rose from the dead.  The rock that was used to place Christ's body within the cave, is available to be seen and touched. People queued to bend and kiss the stone, lay bags of crosses or other soon to be sacred objects, on the stone and pray. Presumably these objects were then going to sold or given to family.

Entry to Coptic Shrine in Church of Holy Sepulchre

Stone on which Jesus body is said to have been lain

Small bags of crucifixes being laid on slab to make them sacred

The ceremonies that go on every day are entertaining. The elaborate robes worn by the priests make it quite a show. Then there is the frankincense and the chanting: what a show. And mesmerising, even for this unbeliever.

 

Less elaborately dressed Russian Orthodox Priests

The next day we visited the Western Wall and Temple Mount. The Western Wall of the Old City or the Wailing Wall, as it is sometimes called, is the Jewish sacred area. Here males and females pray on different sides separated by a fence.  Boys and girls were having their ba mitzvah rituals. I spoke to one grandmother who watched her grand-son's ceremony, while standing on a plastic chair and looking over the edge of the fence, from the women's section of the wall. She welcomed me to Israel. I walked over to the wall where hundreds of women sat while others prayed at the wall. Little pieces of paper with their dearest wishes were tucked into all the crevices. I added my wish. Steve guessed what it was. Am I so transparent? My thoughts always turn to my children at these times. 

Men's side 

Ba Mitzvah and video 

Ba Mitzvah 

Women's section

Girl's Ba Mitzvah- she led the ceremony.

To visit Temple Mount we had to queue for the appropriate time for non Moslems: 12:30 pm to 1:30pm, and only via the Damascus Gate. Prior to this guards stood at one gate barring entrance. We wondered at the time what was happening, not realising that this was an entrance to this part of the city. As we entered we followed a suspended walk way, over the Western Wall watched by many armed guards. Clearly they were trying to avoid any violent acts. Police armed to the teeth with riot gear stood near and in the vicinity of the Wall. No Jews are allow to enter Temple Mount. This week I read about a clash between Palestinian youth and Israeli police at Temple Mount. No wonder the security is tight.

Police near Western Wall

Police guarding entrance to Temple Mount.

Al-Aqsa Mosque

Steve outside the Dome of the Rock

Dome of the Rock

The Dome of the Rock is significant for Jews and Moslems. It is on this site that Muhammed is said to have ascended to speak with God  and travelled from Mecca to here on The Night Journey. The Jews say it is the site of the Second Jewish Temple destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD. In fact the site's significance stems from religious traditions regarding the rock, known has the Foundation Stone, at it's heart, which bears great significance for Jews, Moslems and Christians. 

The Al-Aqsa Mosque is the third holiest site for Islam. Unfortunately an Australian set fire to it in 1969, believing it would hasten the second coming of Jesus Christ. 

Israelies abroad tend to have a reputation as being strong and belligerent. While we were in Jerusalem it was Purim and so holiday time. Purim celebrates the deliverance of the Jewish people in the Ancient Persian empire, where there had been a plot to destroy them. It is celebrated by feasting and festivities. We wondered why everyone was buying up big in the many dress up shops. Purim is also a time to let their hair down and be silly, according to one Israeli we asked. See the result.

One of many musicians busking in Jerusalem

Jerusalem letting its hair down.

The Israel Museum was another excursion. It didn't open to 430pm when we arrived at 10 am so we visited the adjacent Scupltor Garden and The Dead Sea Scroll Museum. Later we returned to see the museum.

Sculpture Garden 

Israel Museum

 The Israel Museum contained archaeology, paintings both modern and impressionist, women's clothing of the past and film.  It was very modern and large. 

Women's clothing

Beautiful shawls

Sarcophagi

Masks

Van Gough

Next, and on our last day in Jerusalem we hiked up the Mount of Olives and walked throughout the part of the Old city we had not seen. The view from the there was spectacular and worth the walk. 

View of Mount of Olives from the bottom.

On the way up.

Garden of Gethsemane where Judas betrayed Jesus

View of the Old City

 One thing I hoped to see was the wall the Israeli government has built in East Jerusalem to keep out the Palestinians. The UN has labelled this a human rights abuse. It is certainly horrific to see. It reminds me of a scene from a science fiction movie.

View towards the West Bank- see the Wall constructed to keep the Palestinians out

The concrete wall is clearer here

That night we ate at the hostel. A Dutch couple were there too. The man was to go in the Jerusalem Marathon. While in conversation I mentioned to the woman that I had seen the wall and thought it was horrendous. She asked me if I believed this, Jerusalem, to be the Promised Land. Realising that she was Jewish and a supporter of the wall, in an instant my honest answer was, "No I don't". Clearly now I was an unbeliever and against the state of Israel. But I don't believe any people have a right to protect themselves at the expense of another people. You can't right historic wrongs by doing more wrong. This is my view.

So I left Jerusalem and Israel not a Zionist, but had met many very helpful and kind Israelis. The strength in the belief of the cause of Zion is strong. How a lasting and fair peace will emerge in this country is hard to imagine.

Israel a place to visit? 

Definitely!